Eighty2Cuta$$ wrote:

Umm, what are you doing?

Making sure the driveshaft doesn't meet another tranny, this one cost me to much to put another driveshaft in it...

It turned into more of an ordeal than I'd hoped, but it's getting closer now...

well..... no go on the warewolf today....

valiant attempt but unforeseen issues arose once we put it all back together... (bursted radiator being the real nail in the coffin)

On a side note, anybody know how to adjust the t.v. cable? All i've found is "adjust is just past tight" but that doesn't really tell me anything...

keepviper13 wrote:

anybody know how to set the t.v. cable?

When I set the t.v. cable on my ole Mercury Grand Marquis, I had someone hold the throttle wide open. I then set the t.v. cable so that it was at max travel on the throttle linkage when the throttle was wide open. This should allow you to build max line pressure without the t.v. cable limiting your throttle linkage.

i think there is a good description at dodgeram.org

just found this:
dodgeram.org/tech/tran...er_adj.htm

Went to my two go-to junk yards and struck out both times on a new radiator... So, I took a closer look at the radiator to see if I could fix it...

First thing was the cap, it was obviously not holding pressure or sealing correctly so $5 and trip to AA and that now sealed. (anybody else ever need to replace a radiator cap?)

Second was the leak where the plastic end caps was crimped onto the aluminum core. It has tabs that are crimped on which capture the plastic end cap. I can only assume that there is a seal in there between the plastic and aluminum. So, wherever it was leaking I took a pair of pliers and re-crimped the tabs... It looked as though they'd just loosened, probably from heating the motor up a few to many times...

At any rate, the radiator now seems to hold water again, so it's now down to sorting out why the speed sensor isn't working...

On a side note, I've got a check engine light that's come on and when I plug my diagnostic tool in it doesn't recognize that there's even anything plugged in. That one's got me puzzled because it worked before...

Does the tool power up?

keepviper13 wrote:

Went to my two go-to junk yards and struck out both times on a new radiator... So, I took a closer look at the radiator to see if I could fix it... First thing was the cap, it was obviously not holding pressure or sealing correctly so $5 and trip to AA and that now sealed. (anybody else ever need to replace a radiator cap?) Second was the leak where the plastic end caps was crimped onto the aluminum core. It has tabs that are crimped on which capture the plastic end cap. I can only assume that there is a seal in there between the plastic and aluminum. So, wherever it was leaking I took a pair of pliers and re-crimped the tabs... It looked as though they'd just loosened, probably from heating the motor up a few to many times... At any rate, the radiator now seems to hold water again, so it's now down to sorting out why the speed sensor isn't working... On a side note, I've got a check engine light that's come on and when I plug my diagnostic tool in it doesn't recognize that there's even anything plugged in. That one's got me puzzled because it worked before...

Could be the fuse for the diagnostic system. I saw it all the time while working at Vatozone. CEL will illuminate, but the scanner won't even power on.

If you don't finish the next race because you didn't replace that thing I'm going to kick you in the head.

gthorne wrote:

If you don't finish the next race because you didn't replace that thing I'm going to kick you in the head.

I certainly have the same thing in the back of my head....
I'm hoping to get it out this weekend for some time to make sure it's fixed....

badyjman wrote:

Could be the fuse for the diagnostic system. I saw it all the time while working at Vatozone. CEL will illuminate, but the scanner won't even power on.

That did the trick... Not sure which fuse it actually was since I just filled the block up with what it's supposed to have since I lost the diagram...

The CEL was on because of transmission gov pressure being "out of range" but I'd assume it was out of range because it didn't know how fast it was going... So I'll have to get a new VSS tomorrow and see if that works... (the old one is pretty busted up so I wouldn't be surprised if it's gone bad)